It starts to the immediate right of the obvious Gillercombe Gully (V.Diff). Pitch one starts off in the same vein as the climb intends to carry on. It feels immediately steep, a bit bold, but always on superb, clean rock with amazing friction. A nut runner at around 5m makes things feel a little less out-there, and from that point the climb takes you around the corner to the left and into an obvious square-cut niche. There’s gear aplenty here, which is nice because the pull out of the niche is steep and on small, highly polished holds. You expect there to be a nice belay immediately above the niche, but there isn’t. You’re spat out onto a slabby gangway leading back right, up to a small but comfortable ledge 37m after leaving the ground.
Pitch two begins with a wild traverse to the left, and easier rocks lead in 40m to large ledges with a boulder belay on the left, overlooking Gillercombe Gully.
In the corner, just left of the belay, is a steep, awkward crack. The sort that looks like it’s going to spit you out. That’s the next pitch, and it’s actually really enjoyable climbing. Never hard for the grade, it leads to a good stance after 20m.
Pitch four starts with a pull up a steep corner on the right, and lands you on a large ledge. Above, there is broken ground, interspersed with some lovely slabby grooves and corners on rock. After 40m you find yourself on another big ledge with a superb flake belay.
Pitch five is for me the best of the lot. You climb awkwardly onto the flake, then step off the left hand side into a steep and difficult groove. UKC gives this pitch a technical grade of 3c, but I reckon it’s at least 4a, and probably 4b. The groove splits after 7 metres, and you follow the left-hand one with a big grin on your face, then continue up slabs to easier ground after 40m.